Texas Forts Ride - April 2015

Wanting a good reason for a short, early spring ride in Texas, and long interested in the history of Texas and the Indian wars of the mid-19th century, I decided to head north and west to visit some of the famous Texas Forts constructed as part of the settlement of Texas.

Brief History

After the Mexican War the new Republic of Texas created a series of empresario arrangements to increase immigration into the newly established country.  The desire was to spread settlement west and north into lands previously dominated by the Comanche, Kiowa, and Wichita and their primary sustenance, the buffalo.  Beginning in 1849 a series of military posts were established in essentially three "waves" to protect settlers.

The first "wave" saw the establishment of seven stockaded posts from Ft. Worth on the Trinity River in the north, to Ft. Duncan on the Rio Grande in the south.  According to Texas Beyond History the placement of these posts had two significant strategic flaws: they were too close to the settlements they were to protect, and were manned mostly by infantry troops unable to either effectively picket the communities or pursue the raiders.

Two years later saw the establishment of forts further "out" on the frontier:  Fort Belknap, the furthest north (~80 miles NW of Ft. Worth on the Brazos), Fort Phantom Hill on the Clear Fork of the Brazos 80 miles SW of Belknap near modern day Abilene, and, 80 miles further SW on a branch of the Colorado River, Fort Chadbourne.  These initially proved as ineffective as the first line of forts providing no real deterrent to the Comanche and Kiowa. In 1854 Texas authorized the creation of two reservations, one on the Brazos below Fort Belknap, and the other on the Clear Fork.  Fort Phantom Hill proved unable to support itself with adequate water and was closed down shortly after it was established, and Belknap essentially became the caretaker of the reservations with responsibility of keeping the Indians in and the settlers out.  At least until 1855.

The arrival of the 2nd Calvary in 1855, under the command of Col. Albert Sydney Johnston brought change to the plains and to the tactics employed.  Shortly after, under the command of Col. Robert E. Lee, the 2nd was dispersed along a line of these "second wave" forts using them as bivouac, rendezvous, and supply points while ranging out onto the prarie scouting, intercepting and pursuing raiders as they found them.  In a further expansion of tactics, expeditions into non-reservation tribal areas north of the Red River saw marked success.

During the Civil War the forts were primarily garrisoned by troops of the Frontier Regiment or, later, by the militia-style troops of the Frontier Organization.  With most attention and resources focused north and eastward in the battles in Virginia, Tennessee, Georgia, and Missouri, the tribes became emboldened and, by the end of the Civil War, settlement on the frontier was tenuous, at best.

The third wave of forts came about as the result of the stationing of federal troops in Texas supporting Reconstruction and, ultimately, protecting citizens of the reconstructed United States along the frontier.  The forts yielded better service than those previous installations, more due to tactics than strategy, their basic positioning within the "circle" of the second wave of posts.  After Sherman "took off the cuffs" in 1871 they provided shelter and support for campaigns designed to end the frontier Indian problems once and for all.

Day 1 - Home to Tolar, TX - 247 Miles

Pulled out early Wednesday morning, April 29th to visit my friends Bill and Martha B. in Tolar, TX.

Sort of jogged around Tomball and stopped at the Magnolia Cafe in Magnolia for breakfast.  Took FM-1774 to SH-105 at Plantersville, then U.S. 6 out of Navasota to Meridian.  From Meridian I took SH-144 through to Glen Rose and then local Hill City Highway outside of Glen Rose to Tolar.

  
 A few scenery shots along U.S. 6 west of Waco. (Click to enlarge)

 

The Forts - Day 2

Day 2 - Tolar to Abilene - 214 Miles

Had a great visit with Bill and Martha, even got a great story to be related about Fort Phantom Hill.  Got on the road about 8:30am heading for Jacksboro, Texas and Fort Richardson.   Visited in order:

B - Fort Richardson

C - Fort Belknap

D - Fort Griffin

E - Fort Phantom Hill.

(See individual pages for information on each)

I began trying to call my friends the Criders when in Jacksboro and tried at each stop, even making a couple of separate stops to try to get through.  At all stops my friendly Smart phone said either "No Services" or "Emergency Calls Only."  It was after 5:00pm whenever I got into Abilene and 6:30pm by the time I got a room and took one of those great road showers and cleaned-up.  I know I'm going to catch it from them, but I couldn't bring myself to be arrogant enough to call that late to try to take someone to dinner.  So, I grabbed a quick bowl of chili and salad at Chili's then hunkered down in my room and, exhausted, turned out the light at 8:30pm and went to sleep.  On the plus side I had a great night's sleep.

Fort Richardson

Fort Richardson

Built 1867 to enforce federal reconstruction law and provide support for settlers, more than 5,000 soldiers saw service in the eleven (11) years of the fort's existence.  

Between 1868 and 1873 the fort was strategically the most important of the line of posts in Texas at its peak housing over 650 officers and men.  After 1870 three major campaigns and hundreds of patrols and scouting missions were launched from the fort.  Congress awarded 30 Medals of Honor to men serving at Ft. Richardson.  The fort reportedly lost 246 soldiers to desertion.

In May 1871 Gen. William T. Sherman made a tour of the Texas frontier to assess the situation himself.  Previously skeptical of the stories of Indian deprecations along the frontier, he wanted to view the ground/region himself.  At the same time a party of more than one hundred Kiowas, Comanches, and others left Fort Sill and crossed into Texas. Led by Satank, Satanta, and Big
Tree, they took up positions on the Salt Creek Prairie. They spotted Sherman's entourage of 100 plus and allowed them to pass unmolested. The next group of whites to pass was a wagon train belonging to a freighting company. The Indians swept down upon the wagons and attacked. They killed the wagon master and seven teamsters and looted the wagons then returned  to the reservation at Fort Sill.  This became known as the Warren Wagon Train Massacre.

After hearing of this raid and confirming the severity of the situation based upon interviews at Fort Richardson, Sherman dispatched Col. Ranald Mackenzie to pursue the Indians back to the reservation in contravention of then existing U.S. Indian Policy which did not allow pursuit onto the reservations.  Upon arriving at Fort Sill Sherman himself ordered the arrest of the responsible chiefs and their return to Texas for trial.  A "parley" set up to lure the chiefs in resulted in a tense fight in which 10th Calvary commander Benjamin Grierson saved Sherman from a Kiowa bullet. 

The three chiefs were dispatched back to Texas where, on the journey, Satank overpowered and wounded a guard before being killed trying the escape.  The two remaining chiefs were tried, found guilty and sentenced to hang, but their sentences were later commuted to life for political reasons by Gov. Edmund J. Davis.  After two years they were paroled.  (Expedient government decisions are, you see, nothing new.)

But the gloves were off on the frontier.  From Fort Richardson Ranald Mackenzie led the campaigns which marked him as the best of the Indian fighters on the U.S. plains, culminating in his remarkable attacks on the Commanche stronghold of Palo Duro Canyon in September 1874. (Ranald Mackenzie)

The fort originally had over 60 buildings, most being temporary in nature and were torn down after the fort's decommissioning. 

Commanding General's Quarters

Fort Hospital

Morgue behind Hospital

Officer's Quarters

Guardhouse ruins and Bakery

 

Only four 4 X 8 foot cells but, according to documentation they were kept full at all times.

Magazine

Magazines are always kept remote from the rest of the forts and were generally designated the last stand location for women and children in the event of attacks.

Fort Belknap

Fort Belknap

Fort Belknap was a "four-company post" established on June 24, 1851 as part of the first establishment period of protective forts in Texas.  Fort Belknap had water problems and, with the Indians moving further west was abandoned for the last time in 1867.

At the time of its founding, Fort Belknap was the northern most of a chain of forts from the Red River to the Rio Grande.  Its presence allowed the settlement of the surrounding area and became the hub of many roads stretching in many directions.  Among them the Butterfield Overland Mail route from St. Louis to San Francisco.  Like the Pony Express it was not long lived (1858-61) but is one of the great stories of American perseverance and courage.  (The Butterfield Overland Mail)

Fort Belknap was the base of the expedition of Captain Marcy and Lieutenant George B. McClellan in 1852. This was Marcy's third expedition, the first two having originated at Fort Smith, Arkansas. Marcy and McClellan explored the Canadian River and discovered the headwaters of the Red River, the last segment of the southern Plains to be explored.

In the early 1850's large numbers of Regulars, often bolstered by Texas Rangers and State troops, did their best to deal with Indian raids, but success was not found until Colonel Albert S. Johnston's newly organized 2d Cavalry Regiment arrived in December, 1855 and dispersed among the forts in the chain.

The major offensive involving Fort Belknap troops was Captain Earl Van Dorn's 1858-59 Wichita Expedition, a march into Indian Territory to retaliate for raids into Texas. Van Dorn led 250 of the garrison's cavalrymen and infantrymen and 135 Indian allies northward, founded Camp Radziminski in Oklahoma as an advance base, and won victories against the Comanche in the Battle of Rush Springs, Oklahoma on October 1, 1858 and the Battle of Crooked Creek, Kansas on May 13, 1859, near present Dodge City.

Among its past commanders (1857-60) was one of my favorite civil war leaders, George H. Thomas, the "Rock of Chickamauga ".  Among fellow serving officers during this period were Robert E. Lee, Edmund Kirby Smith, John Bell Hood.  It was during his service at Fort Belknap that Thomas received his only wounds in a career spanning four wars, shot through the chin and shoulder with two arrows in a skirmish along the Salt Fork of the Brazos on Aug. 25, 1860.

At the outbreak of the civil war 19 of 36 officers of the 2nd U.S. Calvary resigned including Albert Sydney Johnson, William J. Hardee, and Robert E. Lee.  According to Wikipedia, on Jun 18, 1861 J.E.B. Stuart wrote to his wife,  "Old George H. Thomas is in command of the cavalry of the enemy. I would like to hang, hang him as a traitor to his native state."  Sort of ungrateful given that it was Thomas who recommended cadets J.E.B. Stuart and Fitzhugh Lee for assignment to the cavalry during his service as cavalry and artillery instructor at West Point 1851-54.  But, one has to admit ol' J.E.B. proved a little short of good judgement on several occasions.  How about Gettysburg, first two days?

In early 1861 Gen. David E. Twiggs ordered the gathering of all federal troops in Texas and their concentration north to Ft. Leavenworth, Kansas.  On Feb. 9, 1861, two months before the attack on Fort Sumter, Twiggs committed, in my opinion, one of the most egregious acts of treason in U.S. history, surrendering all U.S. forts and military equipment in Texas to the Confederate States then accepting a commission as a Major General for the Confederacy.

Fort Belknap was used by Col. James Norris' Frontier Regiment in their mission to keep a lid on the tribes as the Civil War raged and was reoccupied by the U.S. 6th Calvary Apr. 28, 1867.  In September of that year it was abandoned, superseded by Fort Griffin in Shackelford County. 

Museum & Visitor's Center

Couple of Guns

Betsy at Belknap

Elm Creek Raid

On Oct. 13, 1864 a large raiding party of Kiowa and Comanche raided the Elm Creek Valley northwest of Fort Belknap killing seven and capturing six women and children.  Later, five confederate soldiers were killed and others wounded in an ambush set up by the rear guard of retreating Indians.  At this point things become somewhat muddy.  According to the historical marker there were six women and children, and over 10,000 cattle captured in the attack.  It further states that Britt Johnson, negro slave, lost his whole family and later, retrieved his "people" from captivity.




Texasbeyondhistory states it was seven captives with Johnson's wife and two children.  Further, doubt as to Johnson's exploits in rescuing his family are given with alternative citations crediting a Comanche chief and U.S. troops.  Both sources agree Johnson died bravely and not easily six years later when caught in a fight with other teamsters hauling freight between Fort Richardson and Fort Griffin.

Historic Marker 8 miles west of Fort Belknap on Hwy 380

A marker adjacent to the historic marker commemorating three young men who died in another raid almost three years after the one above.

 Looking north from the marker toward Elm Creek

 

Betsy Basking Bashfully at Belknap

 

Fort Griffin

Fort Griffin
Located just north of present-day Albany, Texas, Ft. Griffin was established in 1867. Troops stationed at the fort were responsible for escorting government mail, protecting surveying parties, cattlemen, buffalo hunters, etc., and pursuing and punishing Indians raiding the frontier.

"The Flat," a helltown located adjacent to the fort, was one of the most active and important embarkation and supply points for buffalo hunters.  Known as the site of the first meeting of Wyatt Earp and Doc Holiday, other famous and infamous visitors included Dave Rudabaugh, John Wesley Hardin, Bat and Jim Masterson, John Larn, and John Selman.  The latter, known as the killer of Hardin, worked there as a deputy sheriff.  "Lottie Deno," a fabulous character and famous as the prototype for saloon owner 'Miss Kittie' in television's "Gunsmoke" was also a resident of The Flat.
(Lottie Deno)

Forts Griffin and Richardson were established in 1867.  On May 16, 1867 twelve cowmen were  rounding up cattle off Salt Creek about five miles southeast of Olney, Tx.  They had rounded up about five hundred over the previous few days all the while seeing fresh sign that hostiles were in the area.  Cautious, they had bedded down the previous evening about two miles from the herd realizing it was a very tempting target for any raiders. 

That morning after drifting the herd for about four miles and spotting several cattle grazing in the distance, the trail boss, Ira Graves, sent two men off to round them up.  Having gone a short distance the two men heard the shrill voices of Indians behind them.  Looking back they saw a large party of Indians had surrounded the cattle and other herders about a mile back.  They were loosely surrounded, but no attack had been made.

Seeing they could head for some timber about a half-mile away one said, "We can get away without any trouble." The other responded, “What sort of a tale will we tell when we get home?”  With that, they turned toward their surrounded group and agreeing one would fire to the right, the other to the left if a fight broke out, headed back at a gallop.  Some of the Indians met them about half-way falling in behind, herding them toward the others.  Knowing they all had to make a break as they drew near, one of the men proposed making a run for the timber.  A returning cowboy responded that would be suicide and, pointing out a small copse of trees about three hundred yards away, suggested they head for that.  Evidently, some of the hostiles understood him and broke just before them toward the same place as the cowboys all turned and moved in the suggested direction.  The hostiles got there first and turned opening fire on the oncoming cattlemen.  The cattlemen then swerved into a small "basin of a place" and, upon assessing their situation, all but one, the negro cook, released their horses when another pointed out they would have no further use of them.  The cook's horse was shot by the Indians almost immediately. 

According to W.C. Kutch, one of two previously isolated cowbows, "The fight continued from ten o’clock in the morning till four o’clock in the evening. Will Crow was killed at the commencement of the fight, George Lemly was wounded twice, John Lemly was wounded twice, Rube Segress was wounded twice, Shapp Carter was wounded twice, Jim Gray was wounded twice, I was wounded three times, Jesse McClain was wounded once; Henry Harrison, Joe Woody and the negro, Dick, were not wounded."

Running low on ammunition it was decided that the wounded would load while the others fired.  Doing this they put up an obviously spirited defense wounding many of the attackers.  Finding head-on attacks especially harrowing the hostiles changed tactics and tried sneaking up the creek branch below the position but halted after five or six attackers fell wounded.  Later, concentrating their fire toward the obvious, and inactive, leaders, the cowmen created sufficient concern to cause the Indians to loose a final volley then abandon the attack driving the cattle away as they left.

The successful cowmen dispatched one of the only three unwounded members for help then spent a tortuous night standing guard and helping each other and the wounded as they could.  The next morning three men showed up with a wagon.  By that time the third member of the group had died leaving nine survivors.  The last to die was C.L.(Shap) Carter, the rider who had asked, “What sort of a tale will we tell when we get home?”

Such was the mettle of these hardy men of the Texas prairie.
Contemporary accounts of the Salt Creek fight (There is also some excellent information on the other fights discussed in this blog.)

In this blog I have told the story of three of raids.
    Elm Creek Raid                     Oct. 13, 1864
    Salt Creek fight                      May 16, 1867
    Warren Wagon  Train fight    May 18, 1871   
   
The following map illustrates their position vis-a-vis the forts visited.

This map, with much of the information contained herein comes from the The Most Dangerous Prairie In Texas.  (This site details a very good history of the Indian wars, and the forts and people involved.)

Entering Fort Griffin State Park you immediately notice a high hill overlooking the entire area.  Under the military precept "take the high ground," I immediately turned Betsy toward the top of the hill.

 

 

 

 

Coming down from the hill a road bends around to the old fort area.  I was running late so took a quick look toward the site and hit the road.  The following photos were pulled from a search of Fort Griffin images.

 I would have liked more time to explore but my interest has always been in the "lay of the land," and understanding the history of a place.

Fort Phantom Hill

Fort Phantom Hill

In 1851 the US Army consisted of eight regiments of infantry, four of artillery, two of dragoons and one of mounted riflemen, each consisting of ten companies.   In Nov. 1851 five companies of the 5th regiment, 6% of total forces, were sent to establish a post on the Clear Fork of the Brazos river at a place called Phantom Hill.

Despite early communications indicating a pleasant place with abundant wild game and sustenance, experience brought below freezing winters with Texas "Blue Northers," summers with many days over 100° F, and long periods of little or no rain with insufficient grass to feed horses.  According to one of the brochures available at the ruins, "There were hailstorms and tornadoes in the spring and fall, ice and snow in the winter, and the wind seemed to never stop blowing."  According to my good friend W.T. Crider, living 20 miles away in Abilene, it hasn't changed at all.  Especially the part about the wind.  I can personally attest to the windiest (and perhaps, most fun) round of golf I've ever played at the Abilene Country Club.  We hit drives that differed by more than 100 yards depending on whether with or against the wind.  It was a hoot.

Further complicating existence at Phantom Hill the supply system was tenuous at best, and the water near the fort contained excessive minerals and was practically undrinkable.  Water was eventually brought from four (4) miles away, potentially a military disaster waiting to happen in the event of siege.  While a siege was unlikely, the lack of sufficient forage, water, or wood spelled the early abandonment of the fort.

Fortunately for the troops charged with not only building the fort, but with protecting settlers, there were not a large number of Indian deprecations since the location was at the southern edge of the buffalo hunting grounds. In 1854 the killing of Indian Agent Jesse Stem and the abduction and later escape of Jane Wilson provided a backdrop to a likewise confusing abandonment of the fort.  After only three years First Lieutenant Newton C. Givens was ordered to abandon the post and chose to burn it rather than leave it intact.  This action ultimately resulted in two courts martial for the officer, the first finding him innocent while the second resulted in a nine-month suspension.  The site was used for years afterward by the Butterfield Overland Mail Company and as a way point for the Goodnight-Loving trail and buffalo hunter and traders.

   




Entering through the portico entry from the parking lot there is an explanatory display detailing information about the fort.

Commanding Officer's Quarters

Commanding Officer's Quarters

 

Nice Texas spring view.

 

 

 Note the well near the cannon

 

More recent event

Well today.  Note security cover

 Investigation by your intrepid reporter has yielded an incident involving the fort and freshman college students in the mid 1980s.  It seems a so-called weird guy, on a semi-date with an anonymous freshman co-ed, required emergency team assistance to be extricated from the bottom of one of the wells after inadvertently dropping his glasses into the well and attempting to retrieve them.  Evidently, after a considerable time of trying to haul himself up and the inability of his companion to find a rope or other assisting device, the decision was made to call for help.  Driving to the nearest public phonebox the co-ed called in the request for assistance providing the name of the "stuckee," but hedging somewhat as to her name.    The incident, as well as the relationship of the co-ed to my good friends Bill and Martha B. of Tolar, Texas, shall remain a matter of private interest...despite being a hilarious story further sweetened by the fact that the co-ed is now the mother of a freshman co-ed herself.  One suspects the old saw about doing as I say, not as I do, might be heavily invoked in any discussions of this incident between the two today.  Besides, anonymity is important since I do not know the statute of limitations on providing false information to authorities. (Note: the name provided by the caller did not begin with "S" and end with "ara.")